Château Rayas Châteauneuf-du-Pape Reserve, Rhône Valley 2012

$979.49
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The 2012 is a classic expression of this legendary estate. This remarkable Rhône red offers an enchanting bouquet of red fruits, kirsch, and garrigue, with subtle notes of incense and spice. The palate is beautifully balanced, showing both power and finesse, with velvety tannins and a long, complex finish that speaks to the wine's exceptional pedigree. As usual, the 2012 Château Rayas Reserve Châteauneuf is 100% Grenache.

98 “The 2012 Chateauneuf-du-Pape Reserve is at the start of its broad drinking window. Prominent kirsch liqueur, forest floor, strawberry compote, dried meat, rosemary, pressed violets and sage are only some of the many aromas and flavors that jump out of the glass. Refined to the core, the athletic 2012 packs a laser-like focus and flawlessly integrates the elevated alcohol. This is a remarkably uplifting Rayas with less obvious punch compared to riper years like 2009 or 2010, but the levels of intensity and finesse are jaw-dropping.” – Vinous

97 “The 2012 Chateauneuf du Pape, which was also tasted from multiple barrels as well as a rough final blend, looks spectacular! Nicely concentrated and textured, with a lively, focused feel, it possesses piercing black cherry, kirsch, pine oil, white pepper and hints of gaminess to go with medium to full-bodied richness, fine tannin and bright acidity. While there’s good overall heft and depth here, finesse and elegance are the name of the game, and I suspect it will be relatively accessible in its youth. Most likely needing little introduction, these singular efforts are made by Emmanuel Reynaud from his tiny plot of pure sandy soils located near the center of the Chateauneuf du Pape appellation. Surrounded on all sides by forest (which is unique) and a cool terroir, harvest here goes very late and these wines never lack for power or richness.” – Robert Parker

Château Rayas is one of the longtime leading producers in the Châteauneuf-du-Pape appellation. It is arguably the region's most prestigious estate, and its wines fetch some of the highest prices in southern France. Much about Rayas is unusual. Firstly, the estate's red wine is made solely from Grenache, unlike most Châteauneuf-du-Pape wines that typically contain Syrah, Mourvèdre and a range of other varieties. Secondly, the estate's 13 hectares (32 acres) of vineyard face north, and do not have any "galets roulés" – the rounded stones so closely associated with the appellation and often found littering vineyard sites in Châteauneuf. Thirdly, the estate's wines are matured in larger-format, "double-piéce" 450-liter barrels.

The spirit of Jacques Reynaud, the godfather of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, is always present. When the legendary founder of Château Rayas died suddenly in 1997, his wife asked their nephew, Emmanuel Reynaud, to take the reins at both Château Rayas and Château Fonsalette. Already making wines at his father’s Château des Tours, Emmanuel agreed. He's somewhat reclusive, and can be found working his vineyards at most any time of day, every day. Emmanuel does not revel in the fame and notoriety that come with making such sought-after and acclaimed wines, but he continues to carry the mantle of his famous forebears, producing hauntingly aromatic wines at his three estates: Château Rayas, Château des Tours and Château de Fonsalette.